Part one here
Day 10
One of the most delicious thing I found here in the mountains is the "champa" porridge which is porridge made from buckwheat. For some reason I love that thing. That's why I had it for a breakfast. How unexpected, huh? It's also good as a side for dal bhat instead of rice if made not sweet.
Anyway, I left the lodge almost last around 8 but I managed to get past a lot of people on the way to Thorong Pedi. I was walking fast and stopped for lunch only shortly my destination. My plan was to reach the high camp before the Thorong Pass which was supposed to be the hardest day. Some people stay in Thorong Pedi and some choose to stay 400m above in the high camp.
I managed to meditate for the most part of the day which was otherwise non-eventful until Thorong Pedi. On the way up to the high camp I met Nat again with whom I spent some time in Braka. We wished each other good luck for the next day and I continued upward. That was possibly the worst thing that I had to endure on the whole trek. 400m or so straight up I've done before several times, even after a whole day walking with a backpack on. What made it so bad was the altitude. Finally I found out what's so bad about it. I was short of breath every minute so I had to stop. I was feeling sick, sometimes even to the point I felt like vomiting. Plus I had a headache and felt dizzy.
If this was meant to happen tomorrow I might not make it, I thought.
After excruciating hour or so I reached the high camp.
The whole thing was several buildings but only one lodge. I went to the reception and the common area which was busy with people. I asked for a bed and was offered probably the last spot in the dorms. 14 people in one small room. It looked pretty bad but at least it was fairly warm and that's all I needed for one night.
I was still feeling dizzy and shaky but after having black tea and huge portion of dal bhat all became better.
I spent the evening in the common room talking to various people and stealing their food and one cigarette.
I went to bed quite early still feeling a little weird because of the altitude (almost 5000m)
Day 10
One of the most delicious thing I found here in the mountains is the "champa" porridge which is porridge made from buckwheat. For some reason I love that thing. That's why I had it for a breakfast. How unexpected, huh? It's also good as a side for dal bhat instead of rice if made not sweet.
Anyway, I left the lodge almost last around 8 but I managed to get past a lot of people on the way to Thorong Pedi. I was walking fast and stopped for lunch only shortly my destination. My plan was to reach the high camp before the Thorong Pass which was supposed to be the hardest day. Some people stay in Thorong Pedi and some choose to stay 400m above in the high camp.
I managed to meditate for the most part of the day which was otherwise non-eventful until Thorong Pedi. On the way up to the high camp I met Nat again with whom I spent some time in Braka. We wished each other good luck for the next day and I continued upward. That was possibly the worst thing that I had to endure on the whole trek. 400m or so straight up I've done before several times, even after a whole day walking with a backpack on. What made it so bad was the altitude. Finally I found out what's so bad about it. I was short of breath every minute so I had to stop. I was feeling sick, sometimes even to the point I felt like vomiting. Plus I had a headache and felt dizzy.
If this was meant to happen tomorrow I might not make it, I thought.
After excruciating hour or so I reached the high camp.
The whole thing was several buildings but only one lodge. I went to the reception and the common area which was busy with people. I asked for a bed and was offered probably the last spot in the dorms. 14 people in one small room. It looked pretty bad but at least it was fairly warm and that's all I needed for one night.
I was still feeling dizzy and shaky but after having black tea and huge portion of dal bhat all became better.
I spent the evening in the common room talking to various people and stealing their food and one cigarette.
I went to bed quite early still feeling a little weird because of the altitude (almost 5000m)
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| Landslide area on the way to Tilicho. Pretty steep as well |
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| Few hundred meters straight down. Fun fun fun :) |
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| People on the trek. Duh! |
Day 11 10.4
I woke up around 4am and spent more than an hour lying in bed listening and watching people getting ready. My plan was to get up before the sunrise and go to a viewpoint nearby. That plan failed because of clouds so I simply packed my stuff, ate some bars for breakfast and around 6am hit the trail. I was faster than most people as usual but oh so slow. Walking on even ground or going down felt almost normal. Walking up I had to stop every few meters to catch my breath. No matter the elevation I had to breathe heavily. In an out for every step I took.
According to the map I walked 550m up over 3.8km. It took me 2.5 hours. Most people still do it a little under 4 so it wasn't too bad.
But yeah, high altitude is a bitch. You are sluggish, constantly without breath and energy despite breathing like a sprinter.
The views were nice but honestly nothing too spectacular. Even from the Thorong La pass. Just high and snowed down rocky mountains.
Plus a lot of people. Not sure where they all came from. The whole trek I saw almost no one and suddenly I had to wait because of people on the path.
And the Throng La Pass teahouse was quite busy. Not to mention the sign with the altitude written on it. There was a line to take a photo next to it.
At the pass I had a tea, ate my breakfast and took some obligatory photos. After maybe hour I went down. It was only 9km but I was going down more than 1600m. For the first time on the trek I was happy to go down because the altitude wasn't affecting me. And my knees were holding well surprisingly.
Along the road I started talking to Pramita whom I've met every day for the past three days since Tilicho lake. She made the rest of the trail much more pleasant and it went quite fast. In Muktinath, our destination, we had late lunch with her cousin and then we all went to find a bus that would take them to Kathmandu or somewhere closer. Our plan has failed so we changed our destination from Muktinath to Kagbeni. I was little disappointed to leave Muktinath so soon because it seemed like a really nice place but company of Pramita and the beauty of Kagbeni made it better. Kagbeni is a beautiful, colorful little town full of green little fields that is surrounded by mountainous desert. I was amazed by the look.
The whole nature after the pass (Mustang valley) is stunning. It's basically a desert but the colours of the rock and sands are so interesting. Plus you have the landslides and other stuff.
I woke up around 4am and spent more than an hour lying in bed listening and watching people getting ready. My plan was to get up before the sunrise and go to a viewpoint nearby. That plan failed because of clouds so I simply packed my stuff, ate some bars for breakfast and around 6am hit the trail. I was faster than most people as usual but oh so slow. Walking on even ground or going down felt almost normal. Walking up I had to stop every few meters to catch my breath. No matter the elevation I had to breathe heavily. In an out for every step I took.
According to the map I walked 550m up over 3.8km. It took me 2.5 hours. Most people still do it a little under 4 so it wasn't too bad.
But yeah, high altitude is a bitch. You are sluggish, constantly without breath and energy despite breathing like a sprinter.
The views were nice but honestly nothing too spectacular. Even from the Thorong La pass. Just high and snowed down rocky mountains.
Plus a lot of people. Not sure where they all came from. The whole trek I saw almost no one and suddenly I had to wait because of people on the path.
And the Throng La Pass teahouse was quite busy. Not to mention the sign with the altitude written on it. There was a line to take a photo next to it.
At the pass I had a tea, ate my breakfast and took some obligatory photos. After maybe hour I went down. It was only 9km but I was going down more than 1600m. For the first time on the trek I was happy to go down because the altitude wasn't affecting me. And my knees were holding well surprisingly.
Along the road I started talking to Pramita whom I've met every day for the past three days since Tilicho lake. She made the rest of the trail much more pleasant and it went quite fast. In Muktinath, our destination, we had late lunch with her cousin and then we all went to find a bus that would take them to Kathmandu or somewhere closer. Our plan has failed so we changed our destination from Muktinath to Kagbeni. I was little disappointed to leave Muktinath so soon because it seemed like a really nice place but company of Pramita and the beauty of Kagbeni made it better. Kagbeni is a beautiful, colorful little town full of green little fields that is surrounded by mountainous desert. I was amazed by the look.
The whole nature after the pass (Mustang valley) is stunning. It's basically a desert but the colours of the rock and sands are so interesting. Plus you have the landslides and other stuff.
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| Mustang Valley |
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| First teahouse on the way to Thorong La |
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| Beginning of Muktinath. Temple on the left |
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| Kagbeni and its fields |
Day 12 11.4
Our little group of three shared breakfast and then we all took of for Jomsom where two thirds of our group hoped to catch a bus to Kathmandu.
We went all the way beside a river and on the rocky river bed and around 11am reached Jomsom. Pramita got the last front seat which meant at least 18 hours drive on the most uncomfortable seat imaginable with no back support and on one of the worst roads imaginable. Honestly, after spending some time in Nepal buses this seems like a nightmare possibly ending with suicide.
(she later said it was even worse than imagined)
I on the other hand decided to had a great day. I said goodbye to a cousin whose name I still don't know despite spending almost a full day with him and find myself a hotel. I went to a maze not far from Jomsom and then headed to a bakery for apple pie and wifi.
The rest of the day I spent reading Lost World by Arthur Conan Doyle and just resting.
Our little group of three shared breakfast and then we all took of for Jomsom where two thirds of our group hoped to catch a bus to Kathmandu.
We went all the way beside a river and on the rocky river bed and around 11am reached Jomsom. Pramita got the last front seat which meant at least 18 hours drive on the most uncomfortable seat imaginable with no back support and on one of the worst roads imaginable. Honestly, after spending some time in Nepal buses this seems like a nightmare possibly ending with suicide.
(she later said it was even worse than imagined)
I on the other hand decided to had a great day. I said goodbye to a cousin whose name I still don't know despite spending almost a full day with him and find myself a hotel. I went to a maze not far from Jomsom and then headed to a bakery for apple pie and wifi.
The rest of the day I spent reading Lost World by Arthur Conan Doyle and just resting.
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| Bard to see but this is sort of maze |
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| Some writing on mountains. The usual |
Day 13 12.4
After omelette with rice I hiked to Marpha. The way was beautiful again. Pretty village, cute apple orchards and some hills. Just before Marpha I had to cross through a river because I wanted to save myself some time and I was rewarded with freezing feet and the sight of some huge wild birds eating another huge wild birds. In Marpha I celebrated with apple crumble and custard, chowmein and wifi.
The rest of the day I was awarded with the beauty of Nepal. The nicest places that looked like taken from a Pixar movie. Aside from the military training area that scared the hell out of me. When I saw it I froze but the guard was all smiling, came to me and asked where I'm from. We had a little chat and he welcomed me to go through the training camp. I managed to took some photos before being told not to. Yay!
After that it looked it's going to rain but luckily only few drops fell during the afternoon. I reached Larjung around 5 and spent the evening eating delicious thakali set on the recommendation of Pramita and then talking about history and languages (my best subjects) with two guys in the hostel.
After omelette with rice I hiked to Marpha. The way was beautiful again. Pretty village, cute apple orchards and some hills. Just before Marpha I had to cross through a river because I wanted to save myself some time and I was rewarded with freezing feet and the sight of some huge wild birds eating another huge wild birds. In Marpha I celebrated with apple crumble and custard, chowmein and wifi.
The rest of the day I was awarded with the beauty of Nepal. The nicest places that looked like taken from a Pixar movie. Aside from the military training area that scared the hell out of me. When I saw it I froze but the guard was all smiling, came to me and asked where I'm from. We had a little chat and he welcomed me to go through the training camp. I managed to took some photos before being told not to. Yay!
After that it looked it's going to rain but luckily only few drops fell during the afternoon. I reached Larjung around 5 and spent the evening eating delicious thakali set on the recommendation of Pramita and then talking about history and languages (my best subjects) with two guys in the hostel.
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| Military camp |
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| Huge wild bird |
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| The nicest path through apple orchard |
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| Regular path through settlement and cows |
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| Again the nicest path |
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| Just a few meters down the nicest path |
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| Wild bird eating dead wild bird. I don't know why are the photos in this weird order. I'm sorry but still too lazy to change it. |
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| Add caption |
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| Military camp |
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| "kitchen" |
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| The last photo. Right after I was told: "no photo" from a guy with whom do you want to mess with. |
Day 14 13.4
The plan for the day way to hike up to Dhaulagiri Icefall which I failed completely. I got sidetracked, then lost, then I thought I found a way, then I got lost and sidetracked again and then found way again. And so on! At the end I was stuck underneath a waterfall trying to find a way down, freaking dangerous even for my standards, or over the mountains, even more dangerous, so I had to turn back. All this took me almost 4 hours and I thought I had no time to go to the icefall so I settled for a nice 2 hour walk around two lakes and the biggest landslide (earthquake results?).
I was feeling tired and in bad mood for some reason so I decided to take an early finish and stayed in the afternoon in a nice hotel in Kalopani with plenty of coffee to lift my mood and way too much food to lift my body. I think it worked.
The plan for the day way to hike up to Dhaulagiri Icefall which I failed completely. I got sidetracked, then lost, then I thought I found a way, then I got lost and sidetracked again and then found way again. And so on! At the end I was stuck underneath a waterfall trying to find a way down, freaking dangerous even for my standards, or over the mountains, even more dangerous, so I had to turn back. All this took me almost 4 hours and I thought I had no time to go to the icefall so I settled for a nice 2 hour walk around two lakes and the biggest landslide (earthquake results?).
I was feeling tired and in bad mood for some reason so I decided to take an early finish and stayed in the afternoon in a nice hotel in Kalopani with plenty of coffee to lift my mood and way too much food to lift my body. I think it worked.
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| Somewhere up there is the ice fall, my planned destination |
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| The biggest landslide. Kind of scary. I'd love to see this with my own eyes once. And avalanche! |
Day 15 14.4
Just another walking day. I got lost several times. Actually I never got lost. I always knew where I am (which is always the case when I say I'm "lost") , it's just the path wasn't cooperating and decided not to exist. I met a quiet Germany guy for lunch and couldn't get a word out of him. He was nice and everything. He even seemed like he welcomed my company, he just didn't talk. Weirdo!
The nature was changing to be somewhat familiar. All the available space on the mountains occupied by fields and settlements. Warmer weather. Hot shower and wifi available and traffic on the "road" which is still just a cut out mountain. Cows and lush greenery obstructing the path. Small plants of marijuana growing everywhere along the path :)
I stopped in little village called Dana, ate delicious mousaka, some snacks, abused the wifi and went to bed.
The nature was changing to be somewhat familiar. All the available space on the mountains occupied by fields and settlements. Warmer weather. Hot shower and wifi available and traffic on the "road" which is still just a cut out mountain. Cows and lush greenery obstructing the path. Small plants of marijuana growing everywhere along the path :)
I stopped in little village called Dana, ate delicious mousaka, some snacks, abused the wifi and went to bed.
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| Again the construction of the Annapurna "highway" |
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| Cows! Glad I told you that, huh? You would never guess that without me! |
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| Cute little animals and cute teahouse where i didn't stop |
Day 16 15.4
I've had big plans for this day. Little did I know it's going to be the end of my trekking. It started well. I hit the road early and tried to find a path to village up in the mountain from which I was planing to take a side route to another village. The goals were two viewpoints.
Most people go to Ghorepani and then Poon Hill for sunrise to see the Annapurna range. I was planning to go Ghorepani and then to Mildau for similar view.
What happened instead was that I spent 3 hours on the hill trying to find a way. I walked through a big construction area from which I was banned. (Later I found out that the path I needed was indeed starting from the construction area but I missed it even though it was like 50 meters away from me. Only shows I was getting tired of the trekking and my mind wasn't working properly.)
I was quite annoyed with all the pointless walking so I signed up for a huge and gray beer cup of coffee. Basically flavored water. It helped though. Full of energy I tackled the mountain head on. I went through a path first but after a while just decided to find my way through bushes and trees on this steep hill. It took me over an hour to reach stairs coming from a different side of the mountains. I thought I found the way finally so I was overjoyed.
I lost that good mood quickly when I tried to find a way through river bed, trees and the most annoying flies that were for some reason always flying straight into my right eye. Still not sure why.
(They do that everywhere apparently. I'm in India now and the little ones still fly straight into my eye)
I gave up this route fast.
I continued on the path to the village which was meant to be my starting point. I asked some villagers for directions and they told me my destination is 3-4 hours away. Maybe 5. It was 2pm, shouldn't be a problem, right? I took a break, ate my snacks and prepared for the road.
Then it started raining. Heavily
I was considering walking for 4 hours through the rain. And I did.
Well... For a few minutes before I realized I still have no clue where I'm going. I gave up more of wasting time trying to find a way and opted for Tatopani instead. Town apparently 1.5 hours down the hill. It was 2 hours in heavy rain.
I was soaking despite my waterproof jacket and shorts. I was tired, annoyed. The whole trail down was made of rocks! Slippery rocks! And the owners of hotels were laughing at my face when I asked for a room. Still not sure what was that about. Fu**ing Nepalis!
(I should clarify that I have nothing against the people. I've had several issues in Nepal and I didn't enjoy my stay as much as Thailand and especially Myanmar. Partially because of me, partially due to cultural differences and partially because of annoying people. All in all, Nepal culture and people aren't my favourite but Czechs have a reputation for being rude and unfriendly so I shouldn't complain too much. We're good Nepal : )
Somewhere during these annoying 2 hours I decided to give up the trekking. It was too much.
Past two days the views were amazing but I wasn't enjoying them. There was little point going to the two viewpoints. I've seen too much already.
I found a place in Tatopani, took a hot shower, had lots of food, played some games on my phone and went to bed.
I've had big plans for this day. Little did I know it's going to be the end of my trekking. It started well. I hit the road early and tried to find a path to village up in the mountain from which I was planing to take a side route to another village. The goals were two viewpoints.
Most people go to Ghorepani and then Poon Hill for sunrise to see the Annapurna range. I was planning to go Ghorepani and then to Mildau for similar view.
What happened instead was that I spent 3 hours on the hill trying to find a way. I walked through a big construction area from which I was banned. (Later I found out that the path I needed was indeed starting from the construction area but I missed it even though it was like 50 meters away from me. Only shows I was getting tired of the trekking and my mind wasn't working properly.)
I was quite annoyed with all the pointless walking so I signed up for a huge and gray beer cup of coffee. Basically flavored water. It helped though. Full of energy I tackled the mountain head on. I went through a path first but after a while just decided to find my way through bushes and trees on this steep hill. It took me over an hour to reach stairs coming from a different side of the mountains. I thought I found the way finally so I was overjoyed.
I lost that good mood quickly when I tried to find a way through river bed, trees and the most annoying flies that were for some reason always flying straight into my right eye. Still not sure why.
(They do that everywhere apparently. I'm in India now and the little ones still fly straight into my eye)
I gave up this route fast.
I continued on the path to the village which was meant to be my starting point. I asked some villagers for directions and they told me my destination is 3-4 hours away. Maybe 5. It was 2pm, shouldn't be a problem, right? I took a break, ate my snacks and prepared for the road.
Then it started raining. Heavily
I was considering walking for 4 hours through the rain. And I did.
Well... For a few minutes before I realized I still have no clue where I'm going. I gave up more of wasting time trying to find a way and opted for Tatopani instead. Town apparently 1.5 hours down the hill. It was 2 hours in heavy rain.
I was soaking despite my waterproof jacket and shorts. I was tired, annoyed. The whole trail down was made of rocks! Slippery rocks! And the owners of hotels were laughing at my face when I asked for a room. Still not sure what was that about. Fu**ing Nepalis!
(I should clarify that I have nothing against the people. I've had several issues in Nepal and I didn't enjoy my stay as much as Thailand and especially Myanmar. Partially because of me, partially due to cultural differences and partially because of annoying people. All in all, Nepal culture and people aren't my favourite but Czechs have a reputation for being rude and unfriendly so I shouldn't complain too much. We're good Nepal : )
Somewhere during these annoying 2 hours I decided to give up the trekking. It was too much.
Past two days the views were amazing but I wasn't enjoying them. There was little point going to the two viewpoints. I've seen too much already.
I found a place in Tatopani, took a hot shower, had lots of food, played some games on my phone and went to bed.
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| Pretty self-explanatory I hope. I haven't seen any bigger plants but it really is a weed in the warmer parts of Himalayas. |
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| Construction of water pipe I guess. |
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| Beautiful wheat fields |
Day 17 16.4
I was told the bus to Pokhara leaves at 8 so after 7 I went to the bus station and got a ticket.
Before 8 the bus arrived. Full of locals.
Lots of shouting, angry faces and broad, fast hand movements followed. Apparently, the guy in previous village sold the tickets for a tourist bus to locals. For almost 2 hours we've received conflicting information about our bus ride which watching several Nepalese argue.
Kind of fun actually. At this point I wasn't worried.
I was worried later when they all rushed us into a full bus and we took off. Luckily they gave us seats. The Nepali guides and porters weren't so lucky.
What was next was a bus ride of hell. Similar to the terrible and annoying ride in the beginning of Annapurna circuit. Except much worse.
This time I was prepared and excited to get rest so I was handling it better.
Crowded bus, way too loud Nepali music straight into my ear, the roads that are full of rocks and holes, missing dampers in the bus and simply the worst combination of things you can imagine on a bus ride.
Later on some things improved, like the music but some things worsened. For the last 3 hours I had to stand in a bus that's not made for my height. My head was at a 90 degrees angle towards my body for the end of the trip. Fun fun fun...
But! After 8 hours of shaking and 100km (12km/hour average speed!) I was back in civilization. I ate a lot of good food, had a shower and went happily into bed.
I was told the bus to Pokhara leaves at 8 so after 7 I went to the bus station and got a ticket.
Before 8 the bus arrived. Full of locals.
Lots of shouting, angry faces and broad, fast hand movements followed. Apparently, the guy in previous village sold the tickets for a tourist bus to locals. For almost 2 hours we've received conflicting information about our bus ride which watching several Nepalese argue.
Kind of fun actually. At this point I wasn't worried.
I was worried later when they all rushed us into a full bus and we took off. Luckily they gave us seats. The Nepali guides and porters weren't so lucky.
What was next was a bus ride of hell. Similar to the terrible and annoying ride in the beginning of Annapurna circuit. Except much worse.
This time I was prepared and excited to get rest so I was handling it better.
Crowded bus, way too loud Nepali music straight into my ear, the roads that are full of rocks and holes, missing dampers in the bus and simply the worst combination of things you can imagine on a bus ride.
Later on some things improved, like the music but some things worsened. For the last 3 hours I had to stand in a bus that's not made for my height. My head was at a 90 degrees angle towards my body for the end of the trip. Fun fun fun...
But! After 8 hours of shaking and 100km (12km/hour average speed!) I was back in civilization. I ate a lot of good food, had a shower and went happily into bed.
The next day I wasn't doing much. The day after I tried to get to India. That meant 27 hours bus ride and I appeared in Kathmandu.
"Isn't that in Nepal uncle Jan?" I hear you asking. And you are correct.
I spent 10 hours on the bus to Indian border. The Indian immigration refused to let me in so I spent another 14 hours on the bus to Kathmandu.
But that's another story. This is the Annapurna trek blog.
"Isn't that in Nepal uncle Jan?" I hear you asking. And you are correct.
I spent 10 hours on the bus to Indian border. The Indian immigration refused to let me in so I spent another 14 hours on the bus to Kathmandu.
But that's another story. This is the Annapurna trek blog.
At the end, I have to say that it was amazing. Seeing the mighty Himalayas was absolutely worth it and I loved the trek.
Physically it wasn't as hard as I thought. It wasn't as cold as I was afraid and all in all it was pleasant.
Surprisingly, it was much harder mentally than I expected. Next time I'll try to find a company for the trek or don't go for more than 14 days.
That seems to be the limit. In NZ I've worked 13 days straight, for 10+ hours and after that I badly needed a break. I've picked fruit in Italy for I think 15 days, 9 hours a day and I was getting drained as well. Sometimes you just need a break and even with one full day break and some early finishes I think I was averaging 15km/day of walking, not too mention the altitude. I pushed myself physically a bit for which I'm glad. More importantly, I made it with sane mind, even though I noticed at the end I'm making more mistakes, I'm missing route more often at the end and in general my brain is tired.
Still, if you have any interest in doing similar trekking, go for it! Highlight of my travels and one of the best times of my life. No joke!
Physically it wasn't as hard as I thought. It wasn't as cold as I was afraid and all in all it was pleasant.
Surprisingly, it was much harder mentally than I expected. Next time I'll try to find a company for the trek or don't go for more than 14 days.
That seems to be the limit. In NZ I've worked 13 days straight, for 10+ hours and after that I badly needed a break. I've picked fruit in Italy for I think 15 days, 9 hours a day and I was getting drained as well. Sometimes you just need a break and even with one full day break and some early finishes I think I was averaging 15km/day of walking, not too mention the altitude. I pushed myself physically a bit for which I'm glad. More importantly, I made it with sane mind, even though I noticed at the end I'm making more mistakes, I'm missing route more often at the end and in general my brain is tired.
Still, if you have any interest in doing similar trekking, go for it! Highlight of my travels and one of the best times of my life. No joke!
There's more photos available here if you're interested.
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